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Wanderings In Warsaw

Date : 04/05/2014

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Frances

Uploaded by : Frances
Uploaded on : 04/05/2014
Subject : Traveling

I'd be lying if I said that Warsaw had been at the top of my list for a winter city break in Europe. I had in mind drinking Sangria in a chic cafe in Las Ramblas, not shivering in some Eastern European concrete jungle, necking vodka in a woeful attempt to keep warm. Nonetheless, after a brief game of Ryanair Roulette, Warsaw won as the pegged destination due to its ridiculously cheap return flights from Glasgow Prestwick. Google weather also informed us that the current temperature was minus fourteen (Wonderful, I thought, having five toes is probably overrated anyway). So with nothing planned for the weekend apart from frostbite and vodka, off we jetted to Poland's capital wearing as many layers as physically possible. Surprisingly, the Warsaw we flew into was enveloped in a flawless blanket of blue, seeming all the more vivid against the myriad of ashen grey buildings that appear to dominate the city centre horizon. For some European cities may dazzle and seduce you instantly with their stunning architecture, cobbled streets, and dramatic monuments hinting at a rich and romanticized history; Warsaw is not so ostentatious.

Its haphazard skyline of sporadically erected buildings and tower blocks are clues to its tumultuous history, both as a country dominated by Soviet rule, and as a city which has almost been entirely rebuilt since its destruction in World War Two. The Palace of Culture and Science - once the tallest building in Poland, and a 'gift' from the Soviet Union - still looms like a beautiful monstrosity over the city, and is a constant reminder of a not-so-distant Soviet past. It is a city very much under construction, visible not just in the ongoing development around the city, but also something more subtle and intangible in the atmosphere; an evasive dynamism and an air of excited expectancy for the future.

It doesn't take long to scratch the granite surface of this city and discover underneath its kaleidoscopic vibrancy. Meander not too far from the city centre and you will come across Krakowskie Przdemiescie, one of the most famous streets in Warsaw. Much of this street survived the war, and it is a feast of churches, palaces, University Buildings, monuments, restaurants, and bars. It buzzes with the same confidence and vitality inherent to the worlds most bustling and metropolitan cities.

Nowy Swiat is another wonderfully walkable street awash with quirky coffee shops, elegant boutiques, and eateries ranging from sushi bars, to sophisticated french cafes, to traditional polish fare. Drift further down and you will reach the (somewhat deceptively named) Old Town, which was destroyed in the War and later restored. There is something beautifully defiant about its meticulous reconstruction. It is quaint, cobbled, and colourful, and therefore a delight for those seeking the quintessential European old town feel. Even though we visited Warsaw at the start of February, the Old town was still adorned with Christmas trees, an ice rink, and mulled wine a plenty on sale. We obviously embraced this time lull with delight and happily indulged in some not-quite-in-season beverages (though we drew the line at donning the ice skates).

In terms of eating out, Warsaw has a seemingly endless amount of places catering for an array of palates and budgets. We ate out at every mealtime, partly because we wanted to try everywhere and partly because it is so affordable. I have a tendency to remember places by what I ate there, so although I can't bring to mind any restaurant names, I do know there is a Best-Cheeseboard-Of-Your-Life Pub (somewhere off the Old town), Biggest-Chicken-Wings-Portion-I've-Had Cafe, and Polish-Dumplings-Washed-Down-With-A-Shot-of-Vodka Tavern (Go forth and find them, traveler, I promise you they're out there). Of course, drinking vodka is part of the Polish experience, so if you're going to do it properly don't order your usual vodka diet coke - shot it like the Poles do. Zubrowka Bison Grass goes down a treat.

Of course, woven into the tapestry of this thriving city is the heartbreaking story of its past. A visit to The Warsaw Uprising Museum will reveal the story of how this city is indeed one which has seen war in the most destructive way. The museum is a necessarily inexorable documentation of how Warsaw and its people were destroyed by the Nazis during the Second World War, and subsequently dominated by Soviet rule. The museum captures the sense of meaningless loss, but also the indomitable and enduring spirit of the Polish people throughout it all. It gives those who fought and died in the Resistance a place where their story can be told and their bravery commended; an acknowledgement which was denied them for so long. The continuous, beating heart - which echoes relentlessly throughout the building - is both the figurative and literal centerpiece of the museum and a testament to Warsaw's brave warriors. It is impossible to leave this museum not somewhat despondent, but more overwhelming is a feeling of reverence for Warsaw's inhabitants - both past and present, as Warsaw today is a city very much hopeful for the future. Warsaw's people may come across reserved but, like the city itself, scratch the demeanor and you will find a wonderful warmth and strength of character.

Warsaw is very much a city you must discover for yourself. It is a Pandora's box of a city, where the best and most vibrant jewels are not to be found on the tourist maps, but rather in the bars you stumble across by accident, the magnificent street art lurking just around the corner, and the locals you meet along the way. No matter what you find, Warsaw will seduce you with its survival spirit and keep you coming back for more with its glittering promise of what is to come. I'll see you there.

This resource was uploaded by: Frances